Monday, July 30, 2007

Goodbye blue van!




We found another place where to stay in Christchurch for our second stop over there. We had planned on going back to visit a bit more this beautiful city and try to sell our van as our time in New Zealand is winding down. During our stay at David and Yvonne's house, we managed to finally bring our van to a garage and get it checked out. We were fearing a pretty salty bill but once again, nothing major was to be done and we got out of the Toyota dealership with a tune-up worth 75$. The noise persisted but we did improve the general running of the van.

In Christchurch, we slept for the last time in our blue van, on a residential street. We were glad to wake up in warmer conditions than Queenstown or Wanaka and met up with Blossom and Danielle at night. Danielle is a french canadian from Manitoba and I enjoyed talking and learning about the big french community where she's from. I didn't know much about it and it was good to have another perspective of french spoken in Canada outside of Quebec. Blossom was also nice and introduced us to some yoga sessions. The two ladies both had a few tasks to assign to us, like repairing the edging in the front yard, water blasting the outside walls and entrance of the house, weeding and most importantly, painting the whole laundry room. We first had to remove the wallpaper and scrape the walls, then do all the painting. We did a pretty good job and could finally see clearly how helpful our work can be. We took some time to post an add to sell our van and were very surprised to get some interest a day later. We were told winter is the off season for selling vans so that's why we decided to start advertising ours in advance. We arranged a meeting with a couple, frenchman Florian and his german girlfriend Beatrice. I couldn't believe how thick his accent was although he had a good vocabulary and grammar. They made a pretty good offer right from the start and I didn't have to work too hard to get the amount I was looking for in the end. Very surprising how easy the whole thing went and Dana and I were sad to part ways with our lovely van but happy to get a worry out of the way. We even managed to sell it 600$ more than we bought it...

On our last night in Christchurch, we hooked up one more time with our german friend Felix, who had come up from Wanaka the previous night. There was an important rugby game in town against South Africa so we decided to go watch it in a giant bar called "The Holy Graal". They have the biggest screen in the southern hemisphere and the place was packed. At least three stories high, everybody was analysing every move of their national heroes. It was also nice that Danielle came with us, as we talked football and sports in general during the game. We said goodbye to Felix after the game and woke up early the next morning to catch a bus at 7:00 a.m.
Our journey in the South island was pretty much done...


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Saturday, July 28, 2007

A trip to Edoras


Before finding a place where to stay in Mount Somers, we stayed one night in Timaru. This coastal town was bigger than expected and very pretty, with a lot of hills. The night in the van was a bit scary though, as we parked in a big public area between overpasses. Young drivers came and went for about 2 hours just after 10:00 p.m., and were either making a lot of noise or parking and staying in their car for long stretches. We thought we wouldn't be bothered with the rain coming down all day and night, but that didn't stop those young fellas from doing their thing. Nobody came close to the van but I was on my guard the whole time... The main reason to stop in Timaru was to find a garage where we could get our van checked. But of course, none were open in the morning since it was saturday and we decided to spend a little time in the local arts museum. After a few hours looking at nice paintings and pictures, we headed to Mount Somers where Yvonne and David welcommed us. They run a holiday park and winter is the big season for them as people come to stay at their place while skiing in the nearby mountains. Our timing was good since 84 college students were coming that week. All the cabins and caravans were packed and we had to make sure they were aired out ot that the heaters were turned off during day time. Among other chores, I swept and mopped floors, trimmed dalias with Dana, did the vaccuming, washed the dishes and played a lot with David and Yvonne's grandson, Sam. Probably one of the biggest 4 y.o. I've ever seen, he talked all the time but was good company. Very smart kid too, and pretty logical for his age. Dana spent most of her time doing some housework. All and all, we didn't work too hard as David and Yvonne were very easy going and didn't count the hours. Every day, we would stop and have morning tea with cheese and crackers. We ate like kings once again and felt privileged to have found such lovely people.


We struggled a little bit to find activities to do in our free times but the best part was definitely when David offered to bring us into the "high country". Some magnificent landscapes are all around the place and David drove us to an important Lord of the Rings site, EDORAS. He was actually an extra in the movie where you can see him for a second and a half in The Two Towers. He showed us where all the scenes were shot, the different camera angles, the time of the day when they would shoot, the small conversations he had with some important actors, etc. Dana was very happy and I felt lucky to have had such a "guided tour". The only downpoint, I didn't have any tape left in my video camera so I couldn't capture anything from the visit...
Though it turned out to be one of the high moments in our trip, so I can't ask for much more!!



photo section:

Edoras, in the middle
getting to Edoras
close-up
Dana and I trying to smile in the sun
lake in a nearby community
picture with little Sam
last picture with Yvonne and David









Friday, July 20, 2007

Finally, Mount Cook



The trip to Wanaka ended up being very short as the weather did not cooperate once again. We stayed one night in a campground and were happy to feel warmth in the kitchen!! Around twenty people were there for dinner time and we enjoyed a nice meal. Shortly after though, it started to feel cold again as everybody left and we went to bed in our van, with another freezing temperature (-8 oc). The bright cloudless sky at night probably had something to do with it but it was a totally different scenario the next morning. We couldn't see the beautiful mountains around the area and were very disappointed. Dana and I had decided to first do a little hike up a path in the mountain, then go to a puzzle museum which had enigmas for adults to solve and then possibly go to a local brewery. The first plan quickly died, the museum had doubled its price in a year and the brewery was only open in the afternoon... That's when we decided to just keep on going and skip Wanaka, similar to Queenstown but less touristy. We drove with the intention of reaching Mount Cook, if mother nature would only let us see it!!!

We crossed the Lindis pass to get there, which is pretty high betwwen the mountains and was closed the first time we drove in the area. It can be very icy and it is recommended to drive with chains on the wheels at times. We finally arrived in the area and caught a glimpse of Mt. Cook. Just behind Lake Pukeki, it was quite a pretty sight. We then drove the last 56 km and arrived on a long patch of ice. It was still early enough to do a little hike and although we didn't have any boots, we walked about 50 minutes in the white snow to reach the moraine of a glacier (just in front of Mt. Cook). We took a few pictures and walked back to our van. We finally enjoyed a night with the temperature over 0 oc and it even started to rain! In the morning, a lot of snow melt, bringing ice to the surface. I managed to get out of my parking space but got caught (once again) a bit further trying to keep the momentum going. The wheels wouldn't stop spinning and it was a mess to try to push the van in the rain. It took more than an hour to find someone willing to help and push us back onto the road. Later on our way out, the van started to lose power and the fuel needle dropped noticeably. We couldn't believe it, everything was going wrong that morning and in that area in general. But once we reached the closest town (Twizel) and brought it to a mechanic, we were told that the bad weather was probably the cause of the problem. Relieved but still skeptical about the van, we headed towards Mount Somers, about an hour and a half before Christchurch.

Photos coming later...


here they are:

Church of the lonely sheppherd, on the way out of Mt. Cook




Friday, July 6, 2007

Queenstown et Glenorchy

En quittant Dunedin, une autre tempete de neige fondante vient nous donner la frousse. Surtout que les cotes a monter avec la van sont longues, Dana et moi nous demandons si nous avons choisi la bonne matinee pour essayer de nous rendre a Queenstown, a l'interieur de l'ile et en altitude. La region avait ete paralysee par une belle tempete de neige dans les jours precedents, et les routes pour y acceder bloquees pendant au moins deux jours. Mais comme nous n'avions entendu que de bonnes choses au sujet de la ville (renommee pour son nightlife), nous etions bien decides a tenter le tout pour le tout.
A mon grand etonnement, les routes sont bien degagees sur le chemin et la glace anticipee n'est presque pas presente. C'est meme difficile de croire que tout etait ferme quelques jours plus tot et les nombreuses recommandations de devoir se procurer des chaines me paraissent un peu extremes... On arrive finalement a Queenstown et je realise alors que je suis en terre connue; reproduction exacte de St-Sauveur et Mont Tremblant!!! Ma balloune bien degonflee, je ne suis pas abattu mais retrouve ce cachet superficiel et les attitudes "cool" qui ne m'ont pas du tout manque dans les deux dernieres annees. Queenstown etant au milieu des montagnes, tout le monde s'y rend pour devaler les pentes et l'argent coule a flot dans cette petite ville. Tous les prix sont exageres et Dana et moi realisons bien vite que nous ne pourrons skier a moins de depenser 300-400$ chacun, pour une seule journee complete. Les "guesthouses" sont pleines ou on demande 30$ juste pour garer notre van et dormir dedans, soit le meme prix qu'une chambre!! On a du mal a trouver du stationnement gratuit dans les rues avant 17:00 mais finalement, on trouve un grand parking public ou il y a plusieurs autres voyageurs comme nous. On cuisine de nouveau dans la van et decidons que nous dormirons la, malgre le -6 oc annonce. Seules aubaines, internet a 3$ de l'heure et le Happy Hour de 22:00 a minuit dans un petit resto-bar. Nous y passons quelques heures afin de nous rechauffer avant la froide nuit et profiter un peu de la ville de party par excellence...

Reveil brutal le lendemain matin quand un homme cogne dans la porte a 8:20 et nous dit que l'on doit quitter dans les cinq prochaines minutes. Il menace de me donner une amende de 400$ si il revoit ma van stationnee la ou dans un rayon de 10 km. Il nous en faut pas plus pour foutre le camp de Queenstown et aller faire un tour a Glenorchy, une heure au nord. Beaucoup de gens ne font pas l'effort d'aller jusque la mais la route est epoustouflante; lacs, montagnes enneigees a moins de deux km et ciel bleu azur defilent pendant une heure sur notre gauche. On prend un paquet de photos et profitons de la belle journee pour aller faire une randonnee entre les montagnes. On passe a travers une foret ou des scenes du film Lord of the Rings ont ete filmees (mort de Boromir) et nous arretons juste un peu plus loin avant de rester pris dans la route enneigee. Finalement, nous trouvons un site de camping raisonnable (10$/pers. la nuit) et nous gelons les fesses comme jamais devant la tele le soir. La cuisine/salon ne sont pas chauffes et l'air ambiant est plus froid que dans le refrigerateur, si bien que meme tout habilles et en-dessous d'une bonne couverture, il fut impossible d'etre confortable.
Le lendemain, la van n'a jamais voulu demarrer dans l'avant-midi tellement il avait fait froid la nuit et nous avons perdu une belle occasion d'explorer un peu plus ce beau coin de pays. Apres avoir ete "booste" par un gentil bonhomme du coin, on a decide de revenir sur Queenstown, puis apres une petite epicerie, de rouler jusqu'a Wanaka avant la tombee de la nuit.


en quittant la region de Queenstown




Sunday, July 1, 2007

Dunedin

It turned out we only stayed a few hours in Oamaru, spending the night and gathering some information in the morning. We slept in the botanical garden's parking lot and took a little walk just after getting out of the van. The people we talked to at the center were very friendly and helpful, and I wish we could've had more time to visit this lovely little town, famous for its penguin colony on the coast. We drove out hoping to find a hostel where to work and stay a few days, about 40 km from Oamaru. But it was closed and we then decided it was time to go visit Dunedin.
We stopped two more times on the way, as there were boulders to look at the first place. We didn't get too close though as an obnoxious lady pissed Dana off trying to get 2$ to go down a stairway. On the second stop, we attempted to see penguins and seals in Shag point. I know, the name is weird but it is possible to see those polar animals on certain days. We got lucky and observed four or five wild seals resting on rocks or coming out of the water. The penguins never showed up as they usually appear later in the afternoon, when the sun goes down. A storm came very quickly from the ocean and we barely had time to jump in the van before the melting snow poured in.
We arrived in Dunedin just before 5:00 p.m. and went straight to the information center once again. A chinese girl was doing a survey for her MBA and her target was tourists travelling around New Zealand. We accepted to fill the 8(!) pages for her and talked a bit. As the office was closing, she asked us where we were going and spontaneously offered us to follow her at the University campus if we wanted to take a shower. After what we went through in Shangai just months previously with the tea ceremony scam, I was a bit sceptical about the offer but she kept on gently insisting and even offered a T.V. room as a place where we could sleep. Dana felt she was genuine and I got convinced to try, not knowing where to go anyway in that brand new city. It turned out she was really trying to help us and we stayed three nights on the Otago University campus!! It was so nice of her we had trouble understanding why at times. But it must be in her nature as Xiaoling even pushed it and gave us her username and password to access the internet from the University!!
We were really thankful and spent some nice time visiting Dunedin, even with the bad weather. We went to the arts museum, inside an old church and the most photogenic building of all New Zealand, the railway station. We skipped one main atraction over there, the Cadbury chocolate factory, as it cost 17$ to visit. We can buy a big 750g bar for 3$, so why bother...



Missed attempt at Mount Cook



We left Christchurch on June 20th and headed towards Mount Cook, the highest mountain in New Zealand. Still very flat on the way out of town, we stopped a few times on the way to try to find some other place to stay and work. It didn't work out that time but we still had some nice scenery on the way. It got colder and colder, especially where we decided to stop, in Lake Tekapo. The fog settled all around the area and we didn't even get a chance to take a look at the beautiful spot. We parked the van in a big parking, next to a bar and a few shops. Surprisingly, we found a nice piece of lamb for 5$ and cooked a good meal inside the van.

After a relatively decent night of sleep, we woke up with frost on the ground and trees. The van almost didn't start but we managed to get out of there after a few tries. Still foggy, we stopped many times to take unusual pictures of the frosted landscapes. We drove next to a giant turquoise lake (Lake Pukaki). The minerals released by a melted glacier are the reason for thsi particular color and it turned out to be really special. Even with the bad weather, we took the road heading all the way to the village of Mount Cook but got some snow half way up. We stopped at an information center to get the latest weather update but by the time we got out, there was almost 10 cm on the ground. It suddenly really looked like home and I had to quickly get back my winter reflexes. We never made it to the top as it became more and more dangerous to keep the van on the snowy road. I even got stuck trying to make a u-turn but got some help from a bus driver and his assistant moments later. Very disappointed, we safely made it back to the highway. We then tried to get out of the area as fast as possible as we heard we might be stuck in a small town (Twizel) for the next two days. A bit nerve wracking, I drove very slowly out of there and was lucky to find rain about 50 km later. Some people had put chains (!!) already and they were selling them for over a 100$ for two!?! At that time, we had decided to head down to Oamaru, before Dunedin, on the east coast.

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